Waves on Water

Year Published: 1950

Creator: ?Encyclopedia Britannica ebec

Complete Record: Uses principles discovered in the laboratory as a basis for interpreting the characteristics of waves and wave motion on the sea surface. Identifies wind as the most common source of a wave's energy, and points out that observation of waves in a tank reveals that the particles in a wave describe circular orbits of a size inversely related to depth. Shows that waves are also caused by applying energy to the water's container, as happens in nature when an underwater earthquake alters the ocean floor, producing giant seismic waves.

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