St John, Virgin Islands, 1960s

come back for the perfect vacation. And that's just what I did. I returned to find in this pleasant part of the world the same hospitality, the same exquisite beauty and utter tranquility that had charmed me before. Yet, while time appears to stand still for the enchanted vacer, in effect, subtle change is going on all the time. But the new is made to blend with the old in architectural harmony, improving, if possible, on nature's own handiwork. [Music] Part of the progress in the Caribbean takes the form of more accommodations for the increasing numbers of travelers, those who are just discovering these islands and those who return again and again. One of the greatest of the island sugar plantations has been converted into a rambling and varied resort. Slave quarters have been remodeled as pastel tinted cottages. The sugar mill is a shop and the former cane fields are a golf course whose fairways sweep down to the dazzling water. There along the shore is a pool and cabanas, a bar and a buffet. The Virgin Islanders still maintain their flare for furnishing comfort without disturbing nature's serenity. A few years ago, this quiet bay was echoing to the stonemason's hammer and carpenter saw. Today, uniring taste and far-sighted planning have made of the romantic old ruins luxurious lodgings. Modern beachfront cottages are tucked away behind sea grapes and palm groves, with the beach and water right at the doorstep, and eight other nearby beaches to choose from. [Music] This complete resort features meals in an informal outdoor dining patio, while each visitor has his own favorite place to stay or a special spot for lunch. He also likes to get out to other parts of the island to shop or sightsee, to visit a notable beachside buffet he's heard about, or to discover a shady spot for cocktails and a new angle on a lingering sunset. So if he's not completely lazy or absolutely beachbound, renting a car for a day or a week is as easy as his name. A choice from a fleet of new and immaculate cars can give added dimension to a vacation and enrich one's stay with new things to see and do. Some may be irresistibly drawn to the exotic variety and colorful activity of the waterfront. while others prefer the exhilarating climb to the top of the mountain and the revelation that lies beyond each headland. Now too, there's a chance to go native for a day on one of the tiny keys dotting the area, scrging shells along the shore, snorkeling or just exploring. returning ravenous to a lunch of island specialties. Rum and fruit punch, Wilks chowder, turtle kebab, plantains baked with orange slices, and a mouthwatering local lime pie. Part of St. John was granted national park status in 1957. Thus, this favored land is assured that its great natural gifts will remain unspoiled. Civilization has encroached only enough to enable the vacationer to tour the primitive trails and to be captivated by the entrancing arrangement of bluff and inlet, promontory and shore. Water sports have taken an even firmer hold as sun-seeking visitors turn more to boating, snorkeling, skin diving, spear fishing, deep sea trolling, and sailing. There are many more boats now. From powerful cruisers to sleek international yachts. From rakish native sloops to a swift twinhauled catamaran for the sailor who likes speed combined with stability. The charter registry is replete with craft for short moonlight sails around the bay, for dayong fishing trips, or for week-long cruises complete with captain, crew, and cook. Everything taken care of for a real seagoing vacation with none of boat owners work. This part of the Caribbean Sea is truly virgin territory for fishermen. But it takes a skilled skipper to interpret the signs to follow the working birds to the best fishing grounds. Not too far offshore, after a brief period of scanning the horizon, seeing perhaps a turtle lazing along a whale surfacing and blowing, there's a swift shock of a strike. The excitement mounts. Careful now. Give him enough line. Then take up the slack. It's hard work, but well worth it when a fisherman can land another one of these green and gold beauties almost as fast as he can bait his hook. [Music] These waters abound in yellow fin tuna, albaore, grouper, marlin, bonita, and kingfish. After that exertion, a man has to renew his strength. But the best is yet to come. The skipper says that's enough of the little stuff. He's looking for wahoo. In these waters, the wahoo or queen mackerel rarely comes under 30 lbs. This looks like a really big one. And he's not giving up easily, but he's met his match and he weighs in at 73 lb and measures 69 in. [Music] The thrill of these waters is their untouched reservoir of game fish ready to challenge the sportsman. Well, those were the changes I saw. More delightful dwellings offering a life of indulgent ease and increasingly varied diversions for those for whom soaking up sunshine is not quite enough. Yet, for all these innovations, the island's captivating spell has not been altered. The radiant sunshine, the matchless splendor of beach and sea, and the infinite enchanting magical panoramas make the Virgin Island still my choice for the perfect vacation.