Reconditioning A Mower (1950s)

regular inspection and reconditioning of the more drive safe system should be carried on after each period of it of extended use to prepare the more for real reconditioning the axle should be blocked so that the wheels are off the floor the more can be been be placed in typical working position by supporting the front of the tongue to a height of about 31 inches to check the pause and spring assembly the wheel must be removed take off the crock Araki and remove the Lynch collar then remove the wheel remove the fouls and springs for cleaning clean the pawl seats an axle thoroughly way with kerosene and brush all good grace containing particles of dust and Griffith will act as an abrasive to increase wear on moving parts in the same manner or clean the ratchets in the wheel use a cloth to dry the ratchets also wipe off the axle and the pall seats removing excess kerosene and all remaining dirt and grit clean the poles and Springs remove all grease and dirt so that these parts can be inspected for wear on comparing an old Paul with a new one where error is immediately apparent the old Paul on the left is badly grooved and must be replaced to check the play in the flywheel shaft bearings the flywheel is moved up up and down this much play indicates worn bearings that cause the shaft to knock the flywheel shaft must be removed on this type more the shaft is taken off up from the front of the housing therefore remove the connecting rod nut and take off the connecting rod the fitmin is connected to the flywheel by by the wrist pin remove the Pittman nut from the wrist pin and take off the Pittman to who start removal of the flywheel shaft raise the gear nest cover him center punch between the ring gear and pinion to lock the gears then using an iron Babar start the flywheel turning to the left or counterclockwise the punch locks the gears firmly allowing the shaft to be unscrewed from the pinion the shaft is now free and can be removed to reflect lace a worn wrist pin clamp to flywheel firmly in a vise it is was well to saw the wrist pin partway through to to make it easier to break off make pic to cut as close as possible to the flywheel strike the wrists in with a hammer to break it off with the hammer and punch to drive out the shank of the wrist pin insert the nil wrist pin use a hardwood block to protect the threat rats while hammering it into place - ribbit the new wrist pins securely in place put the flywheel on the special anvil and swell the back of the wrist pin with the pea beam of the hammered finish flattening the back of the flip in with the face of the hammer the shaft is ready for later replacement before taking out the gear assembly the main drive half gear shield must be removed this shield protects the main drive gear from dirt and foreign matter remove both the bolts from the rear of the shield then take off the third bulb which is at the front of the shield the shield can now be removed this is assemble the gears first remove the supply wheel shaft pinion straighten the Cotter key in the adjusting nut remove the cotter key unscrew the adjusting nut which governs the mesh of the ring gear and pinion be careful to catch such the ball bearings as they fall remove the cotter key on the right hand side of it of the counter shaft to reach the cotter key at the left side of the counter to the shaft the spur gear must be forced out out of the way remove this cotter turkey using up to punch drive out the countershaft pin and then remove it from the gear nest with the the countershaft removed the various parts of the gear assembly can be taken out for cleaning and inspection you use a Prussian kerosene to remove all old grease and dirt from gear parts remember that accumulated grit greatly increases wear on moving metal parts dry the parts of the gear assembly with a clean cloth so that they can be inspected prober where the teeth on this maintains Fergie opinion are worn to a sharper edge this part must be discarded likewise the old flywheel wheel shaft pinion is badly worn and must be replaced with a new one to remove the warned lower bearing place a bar through the flywheel shaft housing set the bar firmly against the bearing before each blow of the hammer drive the bare bearing out to drive out the worn on upper bearing extend the bar from the lower end of the shaft housing but before installing the new bearings check them come on the flywheel shaft for clearance be sure the lower bearing fits snugly but moves freely without binding the upper bearing also should be checked for clearance these B's bearings must allow the chef to revolve easily without knocking or freezing first install though the new lower bearing align the oil holes in that in the bearing with those in the shaft housing have hammer the new bearing into place use also hard wood block to prevent brewing or otherwise damaging the bearing be sure the bearing is driven in completely the new upper bearing is installed in the same manner insert the bearing with the oil fill cup on top using a hardwood block hammer the bearing until the oil cup fits salt olive Lee into its groove in the shaft housing check to see that the oil holes in the lower bearing are aligned with those in the shaft housing the flywheel shaft is now carefully replaced in the housing screw the new pinion onto the shaft when the more is an operation the pinion is continually tightened by by the turning of the shaft to replace this the gear assembly push the counter shaft through through the first bearing and install the washer then place the new main spur gear your opinion in position fit the clutch on home to the large ring gear and slip the clutch spring onto the ring gear hub place these parts in the gearbox and work the counter shaft through to the ring gear install the second can washer then slide the counter shaft completely into position next align the hole in the ring gear hub with the countershaft pinhole replace this the countershaft pin replace the Cotter key at the right hand side right at the counter shaft and the key at the left side spread the keys the adjusting nut should be packed in tin cup grace both to lubricate the ball bearings and to hold them in place as the adjusting thing that goes on the counter shaft tighten the adjusting that not enough to bring the cogs of the ring gear and the five wheel shaft pinion into full mesh without binding insert the cotter cue key in the adjusting nut and spread it this completes the gear assembly reconditioning job before replacing the wheel assembly the parts must be lubricated use a good grade of light grease on the ratchets of the wheel likewise a plotline graced thoroughly to the axle and particularly relate to the fall and spring seats then the new falls and springs are now replaced insert the spring first then the Nepal the Greece will hold the parts in position until the wheel can be replaced slide the wheel onto the axle put on the Lynch collar insert the cotter key and spread it to complete the wheel assembly both both wheels are reconditioned in the same manner finally replace the Pittman and bring the connecting rod make sure the nuts are tightened securely it is best to lubricate the more immediately after reconditioning use a good grade of machine oil for all cups in the drive shaft the axle and the counter shaft be sure to apply plenty of lubricant to the gears during actual operations the drive system of amour should be lubricated with machine oil four times daily remember the three main operations in reconditioning Lima mower drive system first the wheel assembly remove move the wheel clean the parts lubricate the assembly and replace its worn poles and springs second the drive shaft replace any worn part on the shaft itself remove worn drive shaft bearings install all new bearings third the gear assembly remove clean and inspect gear part reassemble the gears replacing any worn part regular attention to these details will make your more and efficient clean cutting smooth running machines for many more years