Modern Style Cutting Techniques

[Music] the first step toward a professional haircut is to have your implements in good repair and in a sanitary condition at all times the yoat clamp can be used very successfully for parting blocking and holding the hair for wet hair shaping the razor with a guard is preferred the following hand positions will help you develop skill and accuracy the exposed blade should be directed away from you during tapering so that the hair strand goes over the cutting blade before coming in contact with the guard the various hand positions determine the amount of taper you may achieve for different styling effects the changing of your blade frequently is very important this can be done rapidly and makes the hair shaping much easier your scissor has one movable blade which is on the thumb side the hand should be stationary at all times with only the thumb moving you will note on the thinning Shear there is one serrated blade and one movable blade here again the holding of the instrument is very important we control it while combing the hair at the same time for this tailored style we start with our guide on the nape line we work from the center toward the Right cleaning up the neckline as we go now this is very important keep the shear flat to the neck so that you don't injure your Patron graduate your comb upward your comb is your guide work always with your Shear over your comb repeatedly checking your guideline you will note how the hair is contoured upward bringing the hair back to the base of the comb bring the guide up to the beginning of the earlobe for this tailored neckline now if you desire a little longer neckline depending on the Patron's neck proportion we can use a little additional length now use an eating movement around the ear this would give you softness for the forward movement which is going to be used with this tailored style comb the hair downward and check it after you have given the proper taper constantly work your guidelines to achieve smoothness and perfection in the gradation work from the center to the left here again we go up approximately to the earlobe we must not get too high behind the ear keep it approximately to the ear lobe some necklines require slightly higher movements such as does our model today with her shorter neck many times we will leave it lower depending on the style or length of the neck line graduate the hair up again bringing it back into the base of the comb we will demonstrate this with a lighter comb so that you can actually see the hair come back into the base of the comb here you will note the hair as it falls to the the base now this is very important to ensure that you have proper blending on the neckline without any coarse abruptness to the hair feather the hair at the nape so that you eliminate a heavy line graduating upward hold the hair out erect from the scalp hold the hair High bringing the hair to the base of the comb and cutting with a blunt movement check your guideline again to make sure you have the guide in the proper contour line with the shape of the head let your top sections down next and blend those with your guide line with an effilating movement a slithering movement with the shears so that you have quite an extensive taper on the ends here again you can hold the hair erect and cut against the base of the comb now this tapers down to the neckline giving a softness to the nape with no bluntness or heaviness at the nape line itself graduate upwards letting one section down at a time now with tapering graduating and fitting the hair down close to the neckline on the sides we use a diagonal parting holding the hair tot combing it forward and using a slight slithering movement to remove the desired amount of hair when the hair is quite curly it is helpful to dampen the hair to remove some of the curl this will straighten the hair so that you we can check the length of the hair properly and give us a better view of our actual hair cutting results of course this should be done only prior to the final cutting a little bit of cutting can be done with your Shear after the hair has been dampened but generally speaking we prefer to do our wet hair cutting with a razor rather than with a scissor however we can remove some irregularities which we may have missed with our razor by the use of the shear now with the bang Arrangement comb the hair down here again using quite an extensive slithering movement so the hair will be soft and Casual over the forehead without too much heaviness comb the hair into position each time to make sure your length is proper comb the haircut thoroughly when you were through directing the hair in the line of the desired style the hair should be groomed thoroughly before the patron leaves if she does not desire a shampoo and wave now this is very important never let your Patron leave the salon without having her hair combed neatly and being well groomed if our Patron were not to have a shampoo and set and out we would dress her hair similar to this we did give her a set and a com out now it was quick and easy from the tailored style cut [Music]