BLUE SURF-ARI, Reel 2

[Music] another delicacy in Hawaii is barbecued octopus hey you guys want some octopus we left to me Hawaii's natural beauty and relaxed atmosphere are unequal anywhere in the world the many miles of unpopulated beaches for fishing or just relaxing but don't get too [Music] relaxed near Sunset Beach is a fun Sandy Bottom Shore Break called poaa three Surfers check out the action Steve Angus thought it looked lousy but Ricky Young from Manhattan Beach could see beautiful possibilities so Rick went out interesting thing about poopaa you can ride in three directions either right left or straight down [Music] [Music] when the wave gets too crowded Rick takes the high road and Fred hemings takes the low road Fred moves up but gets snuffed down Fred is without a question one of the finest Surfers in the world today watch him hang five and go into a body surf right off his [Music] board it looked fun so Greg gbot from San Diego tries it hey it does work no more that greasy kid stuff for Greg Greg's cousin Larry lbeach is the hottest body Surfer around his windmills and body actions are [Music] classic Hawaiian girls are world famous for their natural beauty and friendliness but this friendly Typhoid Mary is about as popular on the North Shore as an unwed mother at a PTA [Music] meeting the most radical spot on the NorthShore and probably in the whole world is the Bonsai pipeline some adventurous Souls like Australia's Mick McMahon will try the impossible just to see if it really is impossible and it is [Music] Greg n finds the pipeline has a very shallow bottom but 10 minutes later he's right back up for anyone hellbent on Harry Cary Bonsai pipeline is the perfect [Music] place but every Surfer must try it at least once [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] even to this day there's still only about a half a dozen Surfers who can really handle the pipeline Steve gains have become one of the [Music] best Butch van artdale is earing the name Mr pip line but says it's easy you make a drop turn in midair speed up to 120 M an hour do a switch foot crank a smart turn trim then walk up for the nose and you got the wave made let's see would you mind repeating that Butch poop in at 117 mph do a smart uh move up easy he says forget it but even an expert like Butch can make a mistake [Music] the problem was he took off at only 96 mph RN no has been waiting outside and grabs an alltime ride [Music] fantastic Hawaii is well known throughout the world for its near-perfect climate and the miles of pineapple and sugarcane fields are a testimony to Hawaii's booming economy but the US weather bureau is reporting a giant storm is headed this way an urgent effort is being made to harvest the pineapple crop before the impending storm [Music] Mark Twain once described Hawaii is the loveliest Fleet of islands anchored in any ocean indeed it is trying to relax is almost impossible when you know soon you may be facing the largest wave of your life less than a half dozen Surfers have ever faced a 30 foot wave perhaps more than the threatening danger and challenge the waiting is the toughest part waiting waiting ironically it was during the Ice Age that Hawaii arose from the sea like the Jolly Green Giant [Music] for once the weather bureo correctly prognosticated the storm surf a pot of gold is waiting for anyone crazy enough to meet the challenge twice in the past 10 years an enormous wall rose out of the sea about a mile out from Bonsai pipeline naturally no one had ever ridden the thing be sure suicide Kimo and Butch thought it was a bad dream Kimo's group had 21% fewer dings Sue is trying to patch Rick's trunks Then Greg null arrived with his board but of course he hadn't seen The Thing Rick went over to tell Greg to forget the board but then they started talking he's look at the set coming outside where do you think Greg can we get out it's a hell of a sad I don't know if we're going to make it past that short break or not come on let's try it we can get out if we get over here see I still think the best bet would be get somebody up on the hill squatting for us and then wait you know right before good and then go okay I'm ready just look at this set coming outside take a look at that size that 25 close to it hey here come stay maybe you's can going go out with us what do you think Mike hey you want to go come on come on you ready yeah right couple of malinis couldn't believe anyone was crazy enough to try and ride this place watching Mike wax up one of them said hey Jack what are those guys putting on their boards I don't know Rick lost the toss and had the dubious honor to be the first one to try to get out looked impossible but there had to be a channel finally there was a slight lull and Ricky launched he had plotted a course of attack but within the first 50 ft the cross current was taking him off course Greg and Mike waited for the inevitable paddling hard Rick plowed over the first wave just in time Frenchie tried to reassure Sue but the inevitable happened not once but four times correction that makes five inevitables Ricky is the most determined Surfer I've ever known his reaction is curiosity not fear Reagan Stang moved down a newly formed Sandbar to a more advantageous launch spot two days ago they'd been surfing over the exact spot where they're now walking outside Rick looks down the vertical drop and pulls back his board follows inside Greg and Stang launch they picked their course and railroaded for it Charlie gandoo couldn't stand the suspense he joined them Stang climbed up took one look and Faded Charlie gando tested the inside Reef hanging high in the wave he blazed a trail across the flat section never knowing when or where the bottom would suddenly drop out feeling his way across the endless wall he felt a surge upward he tried to climb but the wall was getting steep desperately lunged for the top as it turned out it was a very wise decision galento stock jumped up 10 points Stang was testing the shoulder then Rick gambles a Do or Die drive right down the heart of the [Music] wave Rick works his way back high on the wall but one glance tells him pulling out would be disastrous another killer wave close behind leaves him no choice but to ride it out Rick makes an island pull out and races back outside in time to see Charlie galento screaming across the top of a hairy wall Charlie Powers over just in time there is no question Charlie has guts but storm surf with the force of an atomic bomb makes the odds a little uneven Rick confident from his first ride calmly drops into an even larger wave if any awards are given out for keeping a cool head Rick should get it [Music] watch as he calmly trims his board just inches ahead of the giant curl suddenly the wave plays out and RI is left to face the menacing Shore Break he calmly Waits until the last possible second and tries to plow over couldn't make it galento literally fights his way over the top of another [Music] monster Rick happy to be alive makes a quick change in the poor man's wallf Hilton zippers can really hang you up galenta decides to hang it up the whole wave closed out behind him it's a long swim for galanto and a warm reception for Rick but what about Greg and Stang in 5 hours outside Greg null still has not made his move Stang is standing by Greg waiting waiting waiting for that ultimate wave someone screamed outside there it was Greg null on a wall a mile long with no hope of Escape Greg screams across the seething onslaught of hungry Fury knowing that at any second he will be devoured alive that is unbelievable let's watch a a slow motion instant replay of the last part of that harrowing ride again to see just what happened Greg with his feet far apart from Maximum stability is driving far ahead of the giant comr he wants out but there is no out the Feathering top lift of the wave has entrapped him down inside in spite of his fantastic speed the whole world is closing in on him [Music] just ahead the Steep up thrust catapults Greg into space there and the Green Monster eats him alive follow his board now as it reverses course up through the wave and goes into Orit a 50 lb elephant gun floating through space like a feather somehow Greg survived and swam ashore outside pipeline is definitely something else there was no real pot of gold or even Blue Chip Stamps but I know four Brave Surfers who feel a whole lot richer inside Frenchie gave Rick a letter from Teague and some of the guys back in California since they couldn't make the Safari to Sunny Hawaii they took a skiar to The Not So Sunny [Music] [Applause] mountains John says the slopes look like a busy day at malibo some red blooded Americans like the sport of Surfing and some like the sport of skiing but there's one sport that we all like girls the trouble with skiing is you're never sure what they look like here's one that really needs help help actually she lost her contact lens but Surfers don't need help after all if you can stand up on a slippery surfboard you should be able to stand up on slippery skis oh boy [Music] surfing seems to develop strong arms and shoulders and skiing seems to develop strong legs notice the strong [Music] [Applause] legs Dave Rockin was a little short of money so he only rented one ski with a private ski instructor you can learn to ski in a few lessons but ski instructors are a little expensive so Tommy Reigns bought a 10-cent do-it-yourself manual and learned all by himself not a boy Tommy skiing has some funny rules about paying $3 to ride the ski toe to the top of the hill Robert didn't have $3 so they shortened Robert skis didn't bother Robert much though because they were Reddit skis actually the joke was on them because short skis are more fun [Music] anyway some of the ski outfits are too much so are some of the [Music] [Applause] [Music] whiteouts the booby prize for the best white botle of the day will just have to go to this modern Robinson cruso [Music] seeing some of the kids having such a good time gave the Surfers an idea for a new game they borrowed a few old inner tubes off a few old cars and invented a new sport every sport should have a name so they name this one El rupo [Music] [Applause] [Music] seriously watching an expert ski down a fresh powder is a beautiful sight but even experts make mistakes John says skiing is great fun but he thinks he'll to [Music] surfing back in Sunny Hawaii the storm has almost closed out the whole North Shore and now the swell is Shifting towards wame Bay the main Reef has not yet started breaking but the stage is set for a dramatic day waiting outside was easier for some others waited inside Rick and Sue found building sand castles an easy way of [Music] waiting Frenchie noticed the whole Bay was vibrating maybe it isn't the storm vibrating the bay looks like w the wahini Watusi wondergirl has heard about the French lovers and wants to start a meaningful relationship [Music] she almost started a tidal wave from the hill we see the deep water swells approaching land at approximately 30 m an hour let's take this way the lineup is crowded but easy you scratch then feel the lift up power down you're startled by how fast the wave develops you look around amazed you're in the slot you trimain your composure and feel the warm spray nudging you on well you rode the bay and it's a great feeling until you remember it might get three times this size Rick was in no hurry to go out never before had so many big wave Hunters crowded the lineup for the Big Challenge even the first sets are peeking at 16 ft and showing excellent shape by 1:30 the surf had picked up to around 18 ft pour on a wall is a little ridiculous but knowing how quickly the size and mood of yeha can change some of the Surfers are getting in all the rides they can about 2:00 Greg null the Pied Piper of the bay went out Don James with camera paddled out through the channel and to everyone's amazement little Jeff Hackman was going on the main reef is now peeking at a steady 20 ft the thickly shaped wave looks tame but it's deceptively steep but even to a Season Pro like Greg null a spectacular vertical wall can mean a terrible wipe out it's funny to some guys when a heavy takes gas but you don't get to be topcat at Y without a lot of Hard Knocks Frenchie watched helplessly as Greg's big gun smashed into the [Music] Rocks watching a $200 gun get demolished is a sad experience the shocking real realization of just how quickly The Fragile human body can also be demolished sort it makes you stop and think fortunately Greg's gun survived the grueling [Music] [Applause] [Music] test hey Greg how's the bottom go take a flying what Sue doesn't want Ricky to go out but it's getting great out there and Greg and Stang are going out and then forget it sue doesn't grasp the deep meaning why aeha has to a heavy like Rick experiences taught Rick a pronut is better than a swim any day for a moment Rick disappears in the soup and then comes out grinning from ear to [Music] ear Dragon Stang spring out of the green wall and are joined by Professor Peter [Music] call notice how Greg speed bounced him staying gets the same [Music] treatment Rick drops in between two goofy foots Sammy Lee has the problem when the wave gets too [Music] crowded Sue watched as Rick finally got a wave to himself around 4:00 the waves began to play tricks the current shifted a little more to the north and is hitting the main Reef full boore Frenchie's been practicing hard on his pipo board but why Maya Bay is something else Jeff Hackman is making his debut on one of the most radical waves of the day the offshore wind and spray added an air of mystery to the ever growing shifting surf the surfer could use a little radar or a good set of water wings [Music] it's like being buried under a mountain of whipped cream or locked inside a giant bubble machine Frenchie forget about that pipo board outside three Surfers taking no it's only Greg n driving the bottom drops out Greg takes a bad one wow uh-oh another big one and Koo is bent out of [Music] shape the bay is getting out of control there comes little Jeff and Sammy in a giant wall and there's no way out the crow outside is thinning out as two Surfers make the drop one drops all the way in slow motion here's a wipe out that really hurt ow Koo of pearls almost recovers then goes down for the count watch his kao's board again pearls and sends him to the bottom then his board almost Spears him this thing started looking like a longdistance diving contest the idea of course is to get as far away from the dangerous flying board as [Music] possible Mike Stang high in the wave bounces out of control and bails out Greg Powers through but Mike's loose board catches up and almost clobbers Greg here it comes flying boards can really hang you up complete with his clam diggers swim fins and his new pipo board Frenchie decided to try wyam man up in the sky it's a bird it's a plane no it's super surer Wayne Miata almost lost control Wayne had a few kind words for Frenchie they weren't long words but they were kind I mean it's not every day you see a pipe overo at the bay the Jing impact of each ride was like trying to ride a bucking brono bearback fi again screams down in front of Wayne and gave him a little spray this time Wayne really had some kind words for Frenchie and Frenchie learned it isn't courteous to Ace someone out especially when that someone is a karate expert good rule to remember Frenchie Greg and Rick were having the time of their lives but Ricky got so stoked the almost drown Craig spotted a giant set building outside and scrambled off for the first wave but now watch closely as the other Surfer and Board gets sucked backwards over the falls watch there man what a wipe out that's how fast it can really happen GRE looks out and sees kol one of the few Hawaiian locals to ride the bay finally Master to the Steep drop only to lose his speed and get caught in the soup Paul gabauer and Ricky share a wave as it grew later it also got much less crowded as the bigger grinding waves were taking their toll the bay had reached almost 30 ft and Rick and Greg practically had it to themselves it's hard to believe anyone can be so casual and even happy in Surf this size it's no wonder Rick and Greg are considered the two top cats in Big Surf they're both [Music] unbelievable Rick glan up and saw Peter Cole come tumbling Head Over Heels down the Thundering wall almost crashing right on top of him wow that was [Music] close then Rick looked outside and saw probably the largest wave ever ridden Greg and Stang are fighting with all their strength this thundering mountainous wave Stang is Sid slipping and losing speed the whole Mountain explodes burying Stang alive it's unbelievable Greg high in the wave makes it and lets out a yell you could hear all the way to Tokyo never had the bay been more dramatic or it Surfers shown more courage Ricky Grigg here shows more class and style than a Russian ballerina surfing has come a long way from the ancient days of native chap paky in his 160 PB koalak three Surfers streaking into what looks like a black funnel of death Sami tries to prone through the exploding Fury but it was Greg's wave Rusty Miller came in so did Paul gabauer but still outside high at top of peak and flirting with death Greg wrangles out of this giant then Stang Mike Stang got the largest and most terrible wipe out ever recorded in slow motion here it is [Music] Dom made it into through the channel kid horn has found a short board in the channel whoever lost it may be in [Music] trouble somewhere out there someone is in trouble there in the middle of the bay it looks like someone across the bay that deceptively beautiful Fireball is forcing the struggling Surfer toward the jagged rocks someone said it's Frenchy it's impossible to get to him whoever it is a rescue in this treacherous surf is virtually impossible Ricky is trapped outside himself was on a late firy afternoon like this that a big wave rider named Cross lost his life right off the point there goes Rick maybe he can get through to Frenchy in time no impossible pzy Trent was so right when he described y as the surfer's Moment of Truth fortunately Rick is a fantastic swimmer but Frenchie doesn't have Rick's stamina or experience look he made it and he's driving all the way across the bay to help Frenchie inside someone is paddling frantically toward Frenchie looks like Stang and Greg man hurry up and get out of there before another set comes yeah that's definitely Frenchy I can see his swim fins Now Greg and Stang are giving it their best but the rip is rough there's an ancient Hawaiian proverb that says never turn your back on the sea now I know what it means [Music] [Applause] next year may bring bigger Surf and even bigger men to meet the challenge but this is one surfari many of us will remember for the rest of our [Music] lives there are many Beautiful Moments the Surfers share but there are some things man must face [Music] alone would you believe it uh-oh Frenchie dropped his blanket but wonderful Wanda grabs it figures she may need it [Music]